Max Mara RTW Fall 2015

As muses go, Marilyn Monroe is as obvious as they come, but she got the job done for Max Mara. Her famous 1962 beach shoot with George Barris, in which she coquettishly covered up in a Norwegian sweater, camel blanket and sea-green towel, fueled the color scheme and lineup of retro bombshells in deluxe knits and coats. It wouldn’t be fall at Max Mara without them.

Gigi Hadid, the throwback babe with meat on her bones of the moment, opened and closed the show in a pair of beefy, mannish camel coats clutched around her like she had a chill, covering everything but her plumped-up cleavage. It was one of the show’s several hokey approximations of Monroe’s seaside cuddle session and silly Fifties/Sixties affectations that could be overlooked since the sweaters and amplified outerwear classics were so deftly done.

An oversize take on the traditional camel cable knit was pretty perfect. Anyone in the market for a big coat to sink into next season will have great options: a nubby tailored overcoat; a turquoise fur; a pale-pink brushed alpaca. For novelty, there were colorful leopard prints and shiny quilted silk styles with fur linings. Retro lady bombers, sweatshirts and pencil skirts fleshed out the merchandise for those who want something to wear under the coats.