Naeem Khan RTW Fall 2015 Collection

In his show notes, Naeem Khan said of the 10th anniversary of his showing at New York Fashion Week, “the journey has been not only about the beautiful clothes but also about the people that have become an integral part of this art, from traditional artisans in India to luxury European fabric makers.” It was evident from the lush couture fabrics and intricate beading that the designer was raising a toast to those skills, and yet the beauty of such work does not always translate into desirable eveningwear.

While both socialites and actresses alike have favored Khan’s deftly rich creations over the past decade, this collection had both hits and misses. What worked best? A coral-and-burgundy strapless degrade-chiffon ribbon gown, a pair of metallic dome-beaded dresses in gown and cocktail lengths, and a gunmetal-and-black metallic chevron gown that would do a starlet nicely come Oscar night. But pieces thrown in for theatrical effect — an olive green group of beaded and pleated gowns, a Fred Astaire-worthy topcoat and tails in both black and white, and myriad beaded jumpsuits, especially one topped by a sweeping faille cape with excess yardage — shed light on why some actresses just prefer to play it safe on the red carpet.