Backstage at Marc Jacobs Spring 2014

Backstage at Marc Jacobs Spring 2014
Backstage at Marc Jacobs Spring 2014

The beauty look at Marc Jacobs: edgy California surfer girls who are, in François Nars’ words, “Beautiful, edgy, but not pretty.” Nars keyed the makeup, which he did using his own line. After prepping faces with Pure Radiant Tinted M

The beauty look at Marc Jacobs: edgy California surfer girls who are, in François Nars’ words, “Beautiful, edgy, but not pretty.”

Nars keyed the makeup, which he did using his own line. After prepping faces with Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30, Nars went for the eyes — literally. First, he piled on Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara and Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara. Next, he took Kalisté Eyeliner Pencil — a striking teal — and “slashed it” across the inner rim of the eye on top and bottom, extending it into the inside corner of the eye and slightly past the outer edge of the eye. He added a tiny bit of Light Reflecting Pressed Setting Powder under the eyes to keep shine away, and eschewed blush — “I’m not trying to make them look healthy,” he opined. “That’s boring to death.” Nars also passed on the lips and brows, leaving both completely alone.

Guido Palau, working with Redken at the show, opted for wigs for uniformity. But they were anything but boring: They were bleached, then painted to appear as if the hair had growing-out dark roots. Using scissors, razors and “every other sharp thing we could find,” Palau joked, he cut the wigs into bowl-shaped cuts.

Marian Newman created a textured manicure for the show, using Jacobs’ Bark! nail polish, which is slated to launch in the summer of 2014. The polish had embedded Swarovski crystals at the top, which were then covered by another layer of polish. “Especially for summer, it’s so wrong it’s right,” said Newman, who kept the nails short and square. Toenails were buffed, without color or gloss, just a bit of cuticle oil.

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