André Leon Talley’s Kim and Kanye Wedding Diary

Upon arrival at noon, the paparazzi, about 20, were already outside the gates of Valentino Garavani’s Château de Wideville, once the home to one of King Louis XIV’s maîtresse d’amour. Kourtney Kardashian told me that about 30 photographers followed their path all the way from Paris to this beautiful and romantic place for a pre-wedding celebration. And a helicopter purred in the clouds throughout the entire visit.

As we sat waiting in the window seats for the procession of cars to reach the main entrance in front of the moat surrounding the castle, it called to my mind engravings and paintings of court arrivals in French history.

Kim and Kanye’s entourage, a processional of nine black cars, came down the grand parterre promptly at 1 p.m. lead by one of Valentino’s staff in a golf cart. Out stepped the bride-to-be in a long gray and oxidized Valentino bronze lace dress with the most beautiful gray suede stiletto court pumps, her hair in a ponytail and her beautiful daughter, North, in her arms dressed in anthracite gray and tights, no shoes.

The groom escorted his bride-to-be also in Valentino, made cool with a black leather shirt buttoned to the top, and black shiny oxfords. As the staff, about five men in black suits, stood with green umbrellas in the misty drizzle, the black fleet of cars continued to pour out Kardashian family and friends.

There was the matriarch, Kris Jenner, in her perfect black Valentino cape and a red crochet-chenille dress with nude stilettos. And her biggest accessory, her skating rink–sized ring. Kourtney, my luncheon partner, was in white Alexander McQueen leather biker jacket and a long white lace Valentino dress that she purposely left long and trailing the ground. Fashion alert! Clearly the Kardashian sisters are bringing back maxi fashion by wearing long lace dresses for day.

On the other hand, Khloé, in a black lace Valentino minidress and red ankle–strap stilettos, opted for short instead of long. Kim’s grandmother, Ms. Mary Jo Shannon, sat at the second table of ten, and it was touching to see her playing with North’s shoeless, stocking feet as she talked to her granddaughter.

Of course, Kanye, had his groom party, with Virgil Abloh who works with West wearing the coolest black Chanel men’s cardigan. Valentino, himself in shades of beige, opted for grass-green alligator moccasins, bespoke from some bottier in Naples. Giancarlo Giammetti, in a subtle blue blazer, a perfect gingham handkerchief in his breast pocket, white poplin trousers, and shirt, was busy taking photos. In fact, everyone was taking photos except host Valentino. The soon-to-be newlyweds arrived with their own personal photographer and film crews to record these special memories, which was like a family affair. Yet this was a family affair Rothschild-style, fused with Charles de Beistegui and Arturo López-Willshaw.

“I would love to toast these two beautiful people here before me,” said Valentino at the end of the lunch. And I also want to thank Kris Jenner for having these beautiful girls. These girls make my dining room even more beautiful.” And then, which bought tears to my eyes, in Italian, he toasted Kim and Kanye: “I wish you much success, a lot of love, and a long life.” Mama, as Valentino calls Kris, who was seated on his right and Kim on his left, the places of honor, toasted the host. “I first want to toast Kim and Kanye, who love each other, and I say for all of us, this is the most beautiful place we’ve ever been.” (Conversation between Valentino, Kris, and Kim was all about Pilates. Valentino shared he does it every day with trainers in New York, London, and Paris, while Kris was questioning and seeking advice on where to put her new Pilates equipment at home. Kim discovered Pilates during her pregnancy with daughter North.)

The Château de Wideville is Valentino’s masterpiece, and this was pure Valentino, whose standards and taste is as exceptional when it comes to entertaining as any of the Rothschild from the late Marie-Hélène, his close friend, to Liliane de Rothschild, both deceased grand iconic hostesses. Everything is of such luxury, yet his food made it a down-to-earth moment of sheer pleasure. “I love people who love food. When people don’t love food, they make me nervous,” he said. His guest of honor, Kim chimed in. “There’s nothing better than sharing a great moment with people you love, it becomes a special memory.” As courses were served, Kim got up to feed baby North between the first and second, then as she sat down, she took a small bite of the goat cheese in a puff pastry as Khloé took holding duty. By dessert time, North was nibbling on Valentino’s dark chocolate from a beautiful dish, and I heard her say “Pa,” looking for her father.  

Every detail in Valentino’s dining room is noteworthy, full of rare treasures and many beautiful things. The rare white porcelain Meissen chandelier, the seventeenth-century Russian wine vessels (not even the Duke and Duchess of Windsor had this quality of silver), and Fabergé silver-tipped wine decanters with intricate crystal handles at table; coral-handled Russian porcelain from La Vieille Russie, New York. And my favorite, favorite Valentino tablescape feature: a lifetime collection of Meissen swans that seemed to float on a lake of embroidered white linen, on both tables set for ten. The lunch was intimate, with a first course of artichoke hearts salad and poached egg with hollandaise. The second course? A baked sea bass with zucchini sliced to simulate fish scales, a mix of vegetable tempura (also a favorite of North’s, who tried with her few teeth coming in to chew on a slim carrot slice), and a typical saffron risotto Milanese. As Kourtney shared memories of Kim cutting the bows from her favorite Dior pajamas when they were children, she asked for ginger ale, impossible to find anywhere in Paris. Presto, out of the waiter’s hand in five minutes was homemade ginger with lemon. (I asked for the same glass, and it was better than any ginger ale I ever tasted in my life.) Wines flowed from the Fabergé decanters, two at my table: a red Brunello di Montalcino, 2006, and Gavi di Gavi, 2009. There was also a rosé Gosset Champagne (2012), and the white (2013). 

Valentino builds up a meal the way he created crescendos and allegro vivace. First came the most beautiful fraisière, a cake that said “Kanye and Kim” with arrows and hearts in a sugar-free cake, made with Xyla, as substitute for sugar. “It’s my dietetic cake,” said Valentino, made of green apples and strawberries. The pièce de résistance was the blown sugar bowl, something out of this world of marvel as subtly filled with peach and lychee sorbet.  

Who had time for coffee? The family wedding party had to take a tour through the parterre, leaving at 3:30 p.m. to prepare for an evening fete. Through all this, North cried not once nor grimaced. With the curious focus, like her father, she gazed at the Meissen monkey candlesticks, every plate, including the rare chargers, white porcelain with swans, floating on crested china of Elizabeth II of Russia. (Those swans picked up the drama of the table floating with Meissen swans in every shape and size, even one with green vines dangling from its open beak. Valentino explained he was looking for a black Meissen swan, which is rare and hard to find.)

After the quick tour, everyone gathered on the grand front lawn for family-style pictures using their phones, and everyone wanted pictures with Giancarlo Giammetti and host Valentino. As the helicopter whirred overhead, and Kanye’s personal film and photograph crew took pictures, the family and bridal party slowly piled into the cars to get dressed for a 6:00 p.m. departure from Paris to an unknown destination. When asked about certain details, Kanye said only “I don’t know what you are talking about?” like the cat that ate the canary (yet this cat had a solid pavé diamond and gold grill inlaid on his bottom molars). You couldn’t call it a rehearsal dinner—it called for black tie and starts at 7:00 p.m. Destination unknown to every guest, who gets his own personal security and chauffer. Off to the next big moment.

ALT Kimye Nuptial Update!
At the very end, what Truman Capote did with the famous ball he held at the Plaza Hotel in 1966 in honor of Katharine Graham, the wedding fete of Kanye West and Kim Kardashian will become legend. Already, it’s a moment of wonder every second. Each guest has his own personal chauffeur with a Mercedes-Benz S500 Hybrid. Private planes are at the ready for some destination in Italy tomorrow. And to top it all, Versailles with a V, and then some. Mr. West turned it into his home. He threw a great party, ending in lavish fireworks near midnight.