Altuzarra 2016 Pre Fall Collection

Pre-fall was a season of firsts for Joseph Altuzarra. During the latest of the intimate, cliniclike presentations he holds in his studio for pre-collections, he disclosed the launch of the new Shadow Jersey capsule collection of packable, wrinkle-resistant stretch jersey pieces two of his signature tidy jacket silhouettes, a pencil skirt and a pair of pants among them that will open at a new entry price point, will ideally never break sale, and “will act as a uniform” for clients, he said. “The idea is that you can buy a few of them, you can buy the whole collection and you can wear them together or separately.”

In other news, the collection featured elastic-waist pants for the first time. “There is a need and desire for comfort, ease and pragmatism,” said Altuzarra, genuine in his newfound enthusiasm for expandable waistlines.

How did this bode for Altuzarra’s brand of chic seduction, marked by taut tailoring and whippet-thin pencil skirts with generous slits? Not to worry. The desire for practicality as well as sex appeal and distinctive style are not mutually exclusive in Altuzarra’s world. His interest in building pillar products and core categories, such as shoes, bags and jersey, is the work of a designer with his eye on the future. In fact, the lineup was one of his most playfully experimental in terms of texture and color. He worked up his key silhouettes in polka dots; crotchet; oversize paillettes in pink, yellow, and silver; cricket stripes and sequins. Adjusting his lens to shapes that bridged the Thirties, Sixties and Nineties yielded new, flirtier takes on shirtdresses and skirts that were lean but with a kicky hem.

He incorporated bold sequins for day on the collar of a sharp peacoat and a chevron tank.

The oversize paillettes were bold but controlled on slim skirts, dresses and a stunning Thirties-inspired gown. And the elastic-waist pants? Done in polka-dot silk with a matching T-shirt, they were effortlessly stylish but not at all lazy