Andrew Gn Ready To Wear Spring Collection 2020

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The designer imagined the secret life of influential courtier Madame de Pompadou in a wildly eclectic collection.

Andrew Gn is a collector. What he offers on his runway is therefore also somewhat of an eclectic assemblage, united by threads that are more or less visible, depending on his initial inspiration, and this season was no different.

For the coming spring, he referenced Madame de Pompadour, mistress of French King Louis XV and one of the most influential members of his court, imagining her “secret modern life.” An image included with the show notes updated her famous portrait hung in the Louvre to include a spiky choker and pointy stiletto boots, gowns colorized in apple green and fuchsia.

“Imagine her living today: she’d be acquainted with social media, social responsibility, eco-friendly and all that. She’s still an influencer, in a very different way,” Gn said backstage. In filigree is his own eco-friendly practice of sourcing existing materials, such as the lace carried over from resort that trimmed hems and sleeves, but also crafting garments that last.

The show opened with a model wearing high-neck denim — a material he had not used in a while — minidress and those stiletto boots, hair in a high bun finished off with pearls that felt like an influencer-friendly choice. Then came an array of vastly eclectic options. Pleated and draped numbers were understated and impeccable.

Others had old-fashioned charm, using block-print techniques and vegetable dyes, or floral brocade. For example, a crepe midi dress with acanthus leaf guipure appliqué curling around the front was inspired by antique embroidered paper bookmarks.

But even by the standards of a street-style star’s ever-changing wardrobe, the season felt imbalanced. Was it the overabundance of options, individually lovely but vastly variegated, or simply a matter of editing — whatever the answer, the mix did not gel into a coherent whole.