Burberry is burnishing its green credentials, staging its first carbon-neutral show under the soaring Victorian arches of Olympia London and getting to reforest areas of Australia destroyed by the bush fires, among other environmental moves.
The fall show set — a mixture of the elegant and therefore, the raw — reflected this new mood: The space was chilly and the floors bare. The latter still had markings on them from the newest fair.
By contrast, the oblong catwalk had a deco feel with little mirrored panels lining the edges, while pianists Katia and Marielle Labèque played survive stage as models strutted.
Burberry creative director Riccardo Tisci admitted he’s going to grips with green fashion, and it remains a piece ongoing. “It isn’t one hundred pc developed yet. We do tons of nylon, but to urge the proper nylon is difficult. Nobody has good quality yet,” he said, adding that he still loves real fur.
“I did fur for all of my careers because I wont to do couture, but I don’t miss it. Now there are numerous alternatives that look real, but it’s still very expensive due to the technology,” the designer said.
Tisci embraced fur during a big way for fall, jazzing up tailored suits with long fuzzy scarves or wrapping the fluff around the collars and sleeves, over the shoulders and down the lapels of his classy tailored coats. That faux stuff is growing on him.
It had been a continuation of what he’s been doing with the brand, turning Burberry into a life-style offer with a cross-generational appeal: in any case, the brand features a lot of stores to fill and new markets to tempt with checks, trenches, tailoring and T-shirts.
As always, there was an enormous haute element and much of luxed-up icons, including trenches with big open collars or thick gossamer belts, draped at the back; slim, laser-cut leather coats and glossy tartan toppers for men.
Tisci ran wild with checks, tartans and plaids, which landed on everything from silk tops with little shawl details to slipdresses to tailored jackets for men and ladies. there have been also sweet rugby sweater dresses with thick stripes; leggings, bustiers and triple-check head-to-toe combos for all those young’ uns whom Tisci is so wanting to court.