David Koma Spring 2016 RTW Collection

Skimpy tank shapes and racer-backs gave an athletic cast to David Koma’s spring collection, as always hinged on body-con, leggy dresses and second-skin jumpsuits.

The designer, who does double-duty at Mugler in Paris, is obsessive about defining the waist: here demarcated with ruffle-edged, zipper-streaked corsets or lashed with bandage-like strips. Fit-and-flare baby dolls in leather and tulle provided some relief from the hold-your-breath tightness.

Executed mainly in cream, black and nude shades, the collection was graphic, sexy and more youthful than usual.