Fendi Fall Ready To Wear Collection 2020

Karl Lagerfeld didn’t hold back when it came to his disdain for larger sizes, once telling an interviewer “nobody wants to see curvy women.” But Silvia Venturini Fendi is in charge now, and on Thursday night she put inclusivity front and centre on the Fendi runway with more sizes Paloma Elsesser and ages Carolyn Murphy and Karen Elson marking a new era for the house.

On the runway, the focus was on curvy women, if not literally, on making them so by using puffed and padded sleeves, nipped and corseted waists on brushed grey flannel coats and blazers, pink satin and velvet dresses that were the film noir, covered-up side of seductive.

For evening, more revealing lingerie looks came out to play, with satin, bustier and fringe details, worn with pumps with garter ankle straps, and coquettish back-of-the-headbands that looked like a trend in the making.

Some of the shapes were a bit too voluptuous (a leather accordion skirt with a chunky sweater tucked into the waistband doesn’t really flatter anyone), and others a bit busy (cheetah paisley might be better for a powder room pouffe than an intarsia fur coat and skirt ensemble).

But Venturini Fendi made up for it with several lovely, pared-down, body-conscious, Forties-Esque draped shoulder day dresses, the best in a shirting stripe trimmed in black lace.

And in addition to the inclusive casting, there was at least one other nod to the femme future. A cool tech collaboration with London-based accessories brands Chaos featured delicate Fendi-branded gold mesh phone pouches and perforated “FF” minaudière storage devices resembling vintage cigarette lighters. Just the thing for today’s gadget addicts.