Marchesa Spring 2016 NYFW Collection

“A botanical menagerie of caged birds” was the inspiration for Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s uberfeminine spring lineup. And while it was frothy and summery with its pale pinks, greens and yellows, there was also a darker, romantic mood weaved throughout.

The show opened with a pair of boudoir-inspired black-and-nude Chantilly lace-beaded corset gowns – and later, a completely sheer, short-sleeved peplum gown done in black lace netting – all of which referenced the collection’s birdcage theme with a sexy wink.

Feathers were applied delicately – draped artfully over the neckline of a Grecian-style mint-green sheer tulle gown or poking out of the bust of strapless black corsets – and with abandon, as in tiered, full-feathered skirts on flirty cocktail numbers. Bird and petal motifs rendered in 3-D embroidery imbued movement and texture to the lineup’s dramatic evening gowns. With voluminous skirts featuring layers of dip-dyed tulle in an ombré of pastels, the gowns, some decorated with back bows and lace-up detailing, were nothing short of exquisite.

A few looks with cutaway hemlines put the models’ footwear – colorful, laser-cut suede stiletto heels – on full display. The heels were all part of the brand’s debut shoe line in partnership with AKH Group, slated to launch in stores this January.