Zero + Maria Cornejo RTW Fall 2016

Maria Cornejo cited nature — and the freedom she feels being outdoors — as a source for her fall Zero + Maria Cornejo collection. And indeed it was a particularly earthy lineup. “I use lots of cotton and prefer transitional, seasonless clothes and fabrics,” said the designer, whose natural instincts seem global: belted obi coats and leather kimonos, and blanket dresses with a Native American or Berber feel, for example.

Even with all the easy shapes, split-level proportions and layering, Cornejo kept a light hand. That touch was evident in her slender skirts wrapped over pants or jumpsuits and a plush shearling jacket paired with lean pants. Among her many relaxed, ankle-grazing dresses, the pale pink silk crepe version shown with a matching alpaca and wool long robe coat was the loveliest. Once again, Cornejo managed to make even her simplest silhouettes interesting, whether via inventive cutting and draping, rich texture and color combinations, or just because her clothes never look like anyone else’s.