As I open my closet in the morning, I hear the echo of Diane von Furstenberg’s wise words, "Be the woman you want to be." She of all designers knows what it’s like to dress for success; at the office or for seduction.
Who am I today? That is the modern approach in deciding what to wear. The idea that every outing requires a particular style, and that every woman has a rigid way of dressing, went out with Dior’s New Look. (Although that Dior vision of a taut jacket and full skirt is back on the fashion register.)
The most powerful image for Fall 2013 is neither hardcore and businesslike nor sweet and feminine. Let’s call the firm and focused woman "soft core," meaning that the external presentation can conceal a deeply different spirit within.
However much certain smart women designers are in the fore; especially Céline’s Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, and Miuccia Prada; they’re not just presenting designs from a woman’s point of view; they’re creating an emotional connection with the women who buy the clothes.
So rather than embrace a specific style, each woman discovers various designers to suit a number of whims. Focusing on a particular designer to find a look for the day; from subtle sensuality (Prada) to louche sexiness (Louis Vuitton), or from 1950s (Rochas) to the ’70s (DVF) and ’80s (Tom Ford); is a potent trend.
In the case of Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, he has said that he designs for many different moods. The same is true of Stella McCartney, who’s capable of going from casual jersey separates; perfect for picking up the kids; to siren dresses with color blocks that accentuate the body.
So where there is fashion today, there is choice: swirly full skirts or narrow mid-calf versions. Patterns that are graphic and geometric or floral and romantic. The most obvious divide is in accessories, where on the same day a woman might start in flats and finish in stilettos, or swing a tote bag with a clutch purse ready and waiting inside.
For this second decade of the new millennium, one thing is clear; the decision lies with the wearer. Reaching out to a handful of designers is now part of a woman’s fashion right to choose. It begs the question: What to choose this season?