Hermès Men’s RTW Spring 2016

After more than a quarter of a century designing Hermès men’s wear, Véronique Nichanian still has the capacity to surprise. In an otherwise sleepy show that played it safe, abstract, graphic prints resembling spilled ink were unexpected in the way she splashed them over papery blousons and blazers, or a goatskin T-shirt: not all over, but usually engineered to wrap only one side of the garment. Glossy swirls also figured on suede blousons, giving them a jazzy mien. One with vivid green over brown brought to mind jockey silks – apt for a house with equestrian roots.

Unusual colors also added some much-needed oomph as Nichanian paired mint green pants with a rust blouson, or a tomato red short-sleeved sweater tipped with stripes over chocolate brown pants. Occasionally, the color was merely dabbed: a bar of it lined up on the placket of a white shirt, or banding the cuff of elastic-waist chinos.

Much of the collection was rendered in classic shades such as navy, pewter and white, a quieter foil to the eccentric color and pattern. Here, Nichanian etched many of the trends of the season, including featherweight tailoring, a separates approach to dressing and details such as utility pockets. Sandals gave the ensembles a summery air – as did the open-air setting in a Left Bank cloister.