Versace Fall Collection at Milan Fashion Week 2020

Versace has had a banner season — nearly breaking the Internet with the last women’s runway show by sending out Jennifer Lopez in (almost) the same jungle-print gown she wore to the 2000 Grammys, then outfitting new-gen voluptuous beauty Lizzo as a Hollywood goddess for the Oscars earlier this month.

But on the runway Friday night, there were no star turns other than Donatella Versace herself, projected Warholian-style in repeating portraits on the digital video screen spanning the 40-meter runway. She may still be the figurehead, but there’s no denying the house of Versace has changed under Capri Holdings.

It’s less about charting new design territory, and more about repackaging greatest hits, with a few updates for the changing times. Having tackled age inclusivity (thank you, Nineties supermodels and J.Lo) in September, this season, it was on to gender.

“Today’s generation does not care about gender…there’s no female or male,” the designer said during a preshow press conference of her decision to take her show coed. That was after she opened with a few choice words about the horrific rise in hate crimes around the world:

“What happened in Germany a few days ago is almost the last drop, I mean, we need to act and to be fast and we cannot permit young people to think that going back to the past, to the horror of the past is a good thing.”

For women, there was hourglass tailoring in bonded fabrics, including gorgeous blazers with corsetry and articulated seams worn with flared trousers. For men, there were macho leathers, including oversize lush bombers; and for both, twisted rugby, goofy Nineties oversize floral sweaters, allover Barocco printed shell suits, crystal-embroidered tuxedos and lots of stuff to buy, from logo tube socks to eyeglass chains.

Naturally, its model, Kendall Jenner, put it on her Instagram Stories. At 123 million, Jenner’s got 9 million followers on Lopez. Who needs J. Lo after all?