Michael Kors Breaks From the Pack

Michael Kors is a renegade.
Michael Kors is a renegade.

Michael Kors broke with the rest of the designer pack by opting to show his spring 2014 men’s collection at his New York showroom in July instead of waiting for New York Fashion Week, citing a disconnect in the dates.

That’s the women’s calendar,” he said of waiting until after Labor Day. “We’re opening the line for sale now. Showing the clothes in September doesn’t make sense.” He said in the past, when he would show men’s and women’s together on the same runway, he found himself putting retailers off, saying, “Wait, wait, the show’s coming — save some money for our clothes. But that logic is bizarre. I would rather stores see the line when they’re in their fashion mojo.”

Channeling his Hollywood pedigree, the “Project Runway” judge said his spring line was reminiscent of David Bowie meets Cary Grant meets Ryan Gosling. For Kors, this is a season that was “about convergences,” where tailored clothing and pajamas converge into a relaxed yet sophisticated conglomerate.

Many of the pant models featured a high waist, a look that Kors called the “anti-Bieber. Men have forgotten where their waists are,” he said. The defined waists, that he encircled with oversize belts, worked well with the battle jackets and bombers.

Kors also offered pieces that have taken a back seat of late, such as double-breasted blazers. “Most guys haven’t worn double-breasteds in ages, and if they’re 25, they’ve never worn them.” Kors’ offering included Bengal stripes in crushed wool or white linen. “We have to give him a reason to buy something new,” he said.

That includes such men’s wear staples as the seersucker suit, shown with wide-leg pants. “Why not ratchet it up and make it cool?” he said. “Modern New Orleans in summer.”

Confessing that he is “addicted to blue,” Kors offered the color in a variety of hues, from the light shade of the seersucker stripe to the deeper indigo of a denim blazer, cotton pullover and denim-leather trench.

His outerwear choices included “trenches that got short and anoraks that got long.” They were paired with waxed linen cargo pants in a slim fit or hemp linen pleated shorts.

Kors also offered a selection of accessories such as a utilitarian take on the duffle and gym bags in linen, leather and denim. “I’m playing with the whole utility bag idea,” he said, noting that a lot of women have been buying the men’s bags.

He said his men’s wear customer can be the husband or partner of the Michael Kors woman or just a guy seeking a balance between youthfulness and sophistication. This includes men “of ‘a certain age’ who don’t want to look like papa. They’re international, they’re in shape, they travel. They want to look polished and comfortable.”

source: wwd