Since the Irish-born designer set up her women’s wear label in Paris in 1999, her mantra has been “Let’s focus on the core product, and let’s get it right,” Wauchob explained, sipping coffee from a paper cup in her garage-turned-studio in the city’s Marais district. But now that her core business is “secure,” she said, it’s time for her to take “the next big step.”
Wauchob is going digital, and the U.S. is its first and, for now, only destination. “When you do online, it’s about reaching out directly to the customer to get feedback.” The idea, she said, is “to do this for 18 months, [come] to grips with it and see how we can offer the same service in Europe.”
With 150 points of sale at retailers including L’Eclaireur in Paris and H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, the label lists the U.S. market as its top performer. “Globally, our numbers are up significantly. But the U.S. seems to have recovered more quickly from the crisis,” observed Josh Neville, Wauchob’s chief executive officer, adding, “In the past three seasons, we have experienced double-digit growth in the region.”
Sales also have been boosted by the introduction of pre- and resort collections, while the label has focused on expanding its range of products. The designer’s crafty shoe styles, those catwalk eye-catchers that were previously unavailable for purchase, will now be sold online. An exclusive bag collection will start trading on the new site in time for the holiday shopping season, as well.
Wauchob said the latter was made possible by the difficult economic environment that has been plaguing Italy, where she manufactures her leather goods. “Probably due to the unfortunate pressure, [factories] have become more flexible. There is suddenly more potential for small brands like ours to go further without being blocked or held back by the necessity to produce huge quantities,” she said.
The new range will comprise five different styles of clutches that, when unfolded, become portfolio bags. “I wanted this to be something I can take into meetings – with a paper-bag feeling, only more durable,” she said. The handwoven leather pieces with fringed hems – some glossy, some matte, all in her signature hues of black and white – are expected to retail for 700 euros, or $890 at current exchange. “We are making a huge effort to make them accessible. It’s not easy, but [it’s] possible,” said Wauchob, whose fanciful blend of delicate lace looks and heavy artisanal outerwear typically retails for between 80 euros, or $101, for a jersey top to 1,500 euros, or $1,907, for a Mongolian coat.
The designer’s next target, following the U.S., likely will be London. “We are opening a London office and showroom in the next six months,” Wauchob, who is a Central Saint Martins graduate, said, explaining that she wanted “to balance Paris and its focus on craft and product with the energy of London – because I think I kept that in me.”
The brand also has ventured into social media – just don’t expect any celeb selfies or wild party postings on its new Instagram account. “It’s not necessary to put yourself out there like that,” said Wauchob.