Nensi Dojaka FALL 2022 READY-TO-WEAR

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All eyes are on Nensi Dojaka. She’s a phenomenon, current winner of the LVMH Prize, whose fall show was a full fashion sensation—a collection that lifted her work, and London’s reputation as a platform for young talent, to a level that felt as if it could rival anything seen on a Paris runway.

Her look radiated glamour, sophistication, subtle eroticism—a complete picture of female body-confidence, now sized for the first time to extend that power to women with curves alongside standard model-type bodies.

Dojaka proved how her lingerie-based aesthetic, with its delicately complex array of straps, bras, and cutouts, can now flex to encompass excellent tailoring, puffer jackets, and knitwear as well drop-dead, sinuously desirable long evening dresses.

This time, she conquered the integration of new materials—leather, velvet, knit, padded fabrics—into a wardrobe stamped with the confidence of her personal woman-gaze talent for minute signature details, right down to the easy proportions set up by her strappy Lucite mid-heel shoes.

Body exposure as a pandemic comeback trend is a widespread thing—a generation’s fightback about what it means to be alive and out there, dating, dancing, and celebrating physicality after the pandemic drought of opportunity to be young and hot. What puts Dojaka in a leadership position is her classy understanding of how to mete it out with coolness and confidence; the intelligence she has for choosing options for covering up while slaying.

She’s almost ridiculously modest about these intensely hard-working achievements. Backstage, all she said about it was “I just wanted to introduce a bit more of a wider concept of what this woman can be.” Yet within that humility, she’s providing directions that make women look and feel good, and secure, from every angle and sightline. That’s absolutely brilliant for red carpet step-and-repeats, of course.

Dojaka is massively in-demand for all that. But where she’s going with this—and her tailored suits, jumpsuits, body-con sweater dressing, and jackets to wear on the street—promises that her label will settle into far more longevity than simply answering today’s urgent generational hunger for living again.